Heartleaf philodendron

The heartleaf philodendron comes from the forests of Central America and the Caribbean, where it climbs trunks with thin flexible stems and thumb sized aerial roots, taking whatever light filters through. It is among the most forgiving houseplants there is, and among the easiest to propagate, which is why a single plant tends to become several. Indoors it will trail from a shelf, climb a pole, or fill a hanging basket, and it asks for almost nothing beyond a spot out of direct sun and a drink when the top of the pot dries.

Light

Medium indirect light is ideal, and low light is genuinely tolerated, which is why this plant survives in halls, stairwells and offices where nothing else does. It grows more slowly in the dark and the gaps between leaves lengthen, but it does not decline.

What it will not take is direct sun. The leaves are thin and soft compared with a pothos and an hour of afternoon sun through glass leaves pale scorched patches. If you are moving one to a brighter spot, keep it out of the sun beam itself.

Water

Water when the top 3 to 4 cm of compost is dry, which is roughly every eight days in summer and every fortnight in winter. Soak it thoroughly until water runs from the base and tip the saucer out.

This plant tells you clearly when it is thirsty. The whole thing droops, leaves and stems together, and lifts again within a few hours of watering. That makes it very hard to underwater by accident and very easy to overwater, because there is no equivalent signal for a pot that is too wet until the lower leaves start yellowing one at a time.

Feeding and repotting

Feed monthly at half strength from spring to early autumn and stop in winter. Repot in spring, one size up, when roots appear at the drainage holes. It grows perfectly well slightly potbound, so there is no hurry.

Growing it up rather than down

The small brown bumps along each stem are aerial roots, and against a damp moss pole they grip and take up water. A philodendron given something to climb makes noticeably larger leaves as it goes, in the same way its cousin the Monstera does. Tie the stems on loosely as they grow, and water the pole itself when you water the pot.

Left trailing it is just as happy, and a hanging basket suits the long stems, but the leaves stay at the size they started.

Pruning and propagation

Cut long bare stems back to just above a leaf in spring or summer. The plant branches from the cut point, and a few cuts turn a thin trailing plant into a full one over a season.

Every trimming is a cutting. Take a piece of stem with two or three leaves, cutting just below a node, and stand it in water or push it into damp compost. Roots appear within two to three weeks in water, and the cutting can be potted once they are a few centimetres long. The quickest way to thicken a sparse plant is to root several cuttings and push them straight back into the parent pot.

Ailments

Yellow lower leaves usually mean too much water, so feel the compost before doing anything. Long gaps between leaves mean too little light. Crisp brown edges mean dry air or a pot that dried right out. Black soft stems at the base are rot, and the answer is to take cuttings from the healthy growth and start again. Fungus gnats mean the compost never dries. The ledger below has the rest.