How to clean hardwood floors without damaging the finish
About 7 minutes to read. Published . By the House & Hedge team.
Hardwood floors are beautiful, and they are less forgiving than most people expect. Water is the main enemy. A little moisture left standing can seep between the boards, swell the wood, lift the finish and leave dark marks that do not go away. Grit is the second enemy: small particles walked across the floor act like sandpaper, and they scratch the surface a little with every step. A careful routine of dry sweeping, damp mopping and quick drying keeps the floor looking good for many years.
Before you clean, find out what finish your floor has, because the right cleaner depends on it.
Identifying the finish
Most hardwood floors have one of three finishes. A sealed floor has a hard, protective coat, usually polyurethane or a similar product, that sits on top of the wood. An oiled floor has oil that soaks into the wood. A waxed floor has a wax layer, which needs regular buffing.
To check, put a few drops of water on an inconspicuous part of the floor, and watch them for a few minutes.
- If the drops bead up and sit on the surface, the floor is sealed. This is the most common finish, and it is the easiest to clean.
- If the drops soak in and darken the wood, the floor is oiled or waxed, and it needs a cleaner made for that finish.
Check the maker’s documents, if you have them, for the exact finish and the cleaning advice.
What you need
- A soft broom or a vacuum with a hard-floor or soft brush head
- A microfiber mop with a head that you can wring out well
- A bucket of clean water
- A cleaner made for your floor’s finish, following the maker’s instructions
- A dry microfiber cloth for drying and for spills
- Felt pads for the feet of furniture
Dry cleaning first
Sweep or vacuum the floor before you mop. Grit is the most common cause of scratches, and removing it first makes a big difference. Use a soft brush head on the vacuum, not a beater bar, and vacuum along the grain of the boards. Pay attention to the corners and the gaps along the walls, where dirt collects.
Do this at least once a week in a busy home, and more often if there are pets or children, or if the floor is near a door to the outside.
Damp mopping
Damp mopping is the right way to clean a sealed hardwood floor. The mop should feel barely wet when you use it.
- Mix the cleaner in clean water, following the dilution on the label. Use only the amount the maker recommends. More cleaner does not clean better, and it can leave a film.
- Wring the mop until it is damp, not dripping. This is the most important step. A wet mop lets water seep into the seams.
- Mop along the grain of the boards in small sections, moving steadily so the floor does not stay wet in any area.
- Dry the floor as you go with a dry microfiber cloth if you see any wet patches.
- Rinse the mop in clean water and wring it out again before you go on, changing the water when it becomes cloudy.
Let the floor dry completely before you walk on it or put the furniture back. For a floor in a humid room, open a window or run a fan to speed the drying.
Oiled and waxed floors
Oiled and waxed floors need a different routine. Use a cleaner made for oiled wood, or for wax, and never a general-purpose cleaner, which can strip the oil or leave a sticky residue. Apply the cleaner sparingly with a damp cloth, and buff the floor dry afterwards. Re-oil or re-wax the floor on the schedule the maker gives, usually once or twice a year for a busy floor, because the protection wears away with use.
Things that damage hardwood
Some habits and products do more harm than good.
- Soaking or wet mopping. Standing water seeps into the seams and makes the boards swell, cup or cramp.
- Steam mops. The heat and moisture can open the seams and lift the finish. Most manufacturers say not to use steam on hardwood.
- Vinegar and oil soaps. Vinegar can dull some finishes over time, and oil soaps can leave a film that builds up and shows as dullness. Use the cleaner the maker recommends.
- Abrasive pads and scrubbing powders. They scratch the finish and dull the surface.
- Harsh chemicals and bleach. They can discolour the wood and damage the finish.
- Furniture without felt pads. Dragged chairs and tables scratch the surface quickly. Fix felt pads to the feet, and check them every few months, because they wear and collect grit.
Spills
Wipe spills as soon as you see them. Water, juice, milk and pet urine can all stain wood if they sit. Dry the area with a clean cloth, pressing rather than rubbing, and check it again after an hour. A spill left overnight is much harder to deal with, and it can leave a dark mark that needs professional work.
Stains and marks
Scuffs from shoes and furniture can often be lifted with a soft cloth and a little of the cleaner, rubbed gently along the grain. Heel marks on sealed floors usually come off with a damp cloth. Crayon and marker can be removed with a cloth and a small amount of mild soap, followed by a clean damp wipe. For water stains and black marks, see the separate guide on water stains in hardwood, because those usually need more than a cleaner.
Keeping the floor in good condition
- Sweep or vacuum weekly, and damp mop every one to two weeks.
- Keep mats at the doors, and remove shoes at the entrance if you can.
- Trim pet nails, and clean up accidents at once.
- Keep the room’s humidity steady, because wood moves with the seasons. Very dry air can open gaps between the boards, and very damp air can cause cupping.
- Check the felt pads on furniture every few months.
Gaps, cupping and the seasons
Wood moves with the amount of moisture in the air around it. In a dry winter, boards shrink and small gaps open between them. In a damp summer, they swell, and their edges can rise a little, which is called cupping. Both are normal to a degree, and most floors settle within a season. A heating or humidity system that runs hard, or a room that is damp because of a leak, makes the movement worse.
A steady indoor humidity, somewhere in the range that most flooring makers recommend, keeps the boards stable. A simple hygrometer, which costs little, tells you the level in the room. A humidifier in dry weather and a dehumidifier in wet weather are the usual tools. Cleaning cannot fix movement in the wood, but a floor that is kept at a steady humidity is far less likely to gap or cup, and it keeps the finish sound for longer.
When to call a professional
If the floor has deep scratches, dents, areas where the finish has peeled, or boards that have cupped or come apart at the seams, a cleaning routine will not repair them. Those are jobs for a floor specialist, who can sand and refinish the wood or replace damaged boards. If the floor is lifting or squeaking, or if water has been standing on it for a long time, have it inspected, because the damage may be underneath.
A dry sweep, a damp mop and a quick dry will keep a sealed hardwood floor clean for years, and the finish will still look like new after the tenth winter of boots and dogs.
