Bird of paradise
Also called Crane flower, Kraanvoelblom, Orange bird of paradise.
| Light | full sun |
|---|---|
| Water | Every 7 days in the growing season, every 18 in winter |
| Pets | Cats toxic, dogs toxic |
Source: ASPCA Animal Poison Control, toxic and non-toxic plants list.
Toxic to cats and dogs if chewed. Listed as toxic to cats, dogs and horses, with gastrointestinal irritants causing mild nausea, vomiting and drowsiness. The fruit and seeds are the parts that cause it. Keep it where an animal that eats houseplants cannot reach it, and speak to a vet if one does. In South Africa telephone the Poison Information Helpline on 0861 555 777; in the US, the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center on (888) 426-4435.
The bird of paradise is a South African plant, from the Eastern Cape where it grows in coastal scrub and along riverbanks, and it is the floral emblem of the city of Cape Town. The flower is one of the strangest things in cultivation: a horizontal boat shaped bract from which orange sepals and a blue arrow of fused petals emerge one at a time, built to be perched on and pollinated by sunbirds, which stand on the blue part and get dusted with pollen. Knowing where it comes from tells you how to grow it. It wants sun, it wants to be crowded, and it wants a dry winter.
Light
Full sun. Outdoors in a warm climate that means an open position; indoors it means the brightest window in the house, with four to six hours of direct sun as a minimum. This is not a preference, it is the condition on which flowering depends, and a bird of paradise in a bright but sunless room will make handsome leaves for a decade and never bloom.
Water
Water thoroughly through spring and summer when the top 4 cm of compost is dry, roughly weekly in a warm room, and cut back sharply in winter to about every eighteen days. It is drought tolerant once established, and the fastest way to lose one is a pot kept damp through a cool winter.
Outdoors in a frost free climate it needs very little once its roots are down. It survives a light frost with damage and will regrow from the base after a hard one if the ground does not freeze.
Feeding and repotting
It is hungry while it is growing. Feed at half strength every second watering through spring and summer, and stop entirely in winter. A plant that is being asked to produce flower stems needs the support.
Repotting is where most people go wrong. Leave it potbound. It flowers when the roots are crowded, and moving a plant into a generous pot resets it: several years of root and leaf growth follow before it blooms again. Repot every third year at most, one size up, and top dress in between by scraping off the top few centimetres and replacing them.
Getting it to flower
Three things decide it. Light, as above. Age, because a division takes two or three years to reach flowering size and a seedling four to six, so a small plant that has never flowered is very often simply too young. And crowding, because a happy potbound clump flowers where a comfortable one does not.
A mature plant in the right conditions flowers from late winter into spring in its native range, which is roughly August to November in the southern hemisphere and, for a plant grown under glass in the north, late winter to early summer. Each stem opens several flowers in succession over a few weeks.
Pruning and propagation
Cut spent flower stems and dead leaves out at the base. Nothing else needs pruning.
Divide a mature clump in spring, using a knife or a spade, and keep at least three or four leaves and a solid share of roots on each division. Expect it to sulk for a season. Seed is possible from fresh seed at about 25 degrees and is a long project, but it is the only way to raise a lot of plants at once.
Ailments
The complaint is almost always the same one, which is that it will not flower, and the answer is sun, age and a tight pot. Brown edges indoors are dry air or feed salts. Yellow lower leaves in winter mean too much water. Mealybugs hide where the leaf stalks meet the base and are worth looking for. The ledger below has the rest.
Ailments observed
| It will not flower | Too little light, a plant that is not yet mature, or a pot that is too large. Move it to full sun, feed through the growing season, and leave it potbound. A seed grown plant needs four to six years and a division two or three. |
|---|---|
| Brown crisp edges on the leaves | Dry air indoors, or salts from feeding. Water more evenly, flush the pot with plain water every couple of months, and keep it away from radiators. |
| Yellow leaves at the bottom of the plant | Overwatering in winter, or an old leaf being shed. Cut winter watering back sharply. One old outer leaf yellowing at a time is normal on a growing plant. |
| Limp, drooping leaves | Root rot from wet compost, or a hard freeze. Check the drainage and let the compost dry further. Damage from frost shows a few days after the cold and the affected leaves should be cut out. |
| White fluff where the leaf meets the stem | Mealybugs where the leaf stalks meet the base. Dab each one with a cotton bud dipped in alcohol, part the stalks and check right down to the compost, and repeat weekly. |
Questions from the margin
Why won't my bird of paradise flower?
Three reasons, in this order. Not enough direct sun, a plant that is not old enough, and a pot that is too big. A division takes two or three years to flower and a seedling four to six, and both need several hours of direct sun and a crowded pot.
How often should I water a bird of paradise?
Weekly through the growing season when the top 4 cm is dry, and roughly every eighteen days in winter. It is drought tolerant once established and far more likely to be killed by a wet winter pot than a dry summer one.
Should I repot my bird of paradise?
Only every third year at most, and only one size up. It flowers when its roots are crowded, so a plant moved into a generous pot will put several years into roots and leaves before it blooms again.
Is a bird of paradise poisonous to pets?
Yes, it is listed as toxic to cats and dogs, with the fruit and seeds causing mild nausea, vomiting and drowsiness. The leaves are the part most likely to be chewed and are much less of a problem than the seeds.
Filed underStatement plants
Neighbouring entries
Areca palm
Dypsis lutescensAreca palm care that keeps the fronds green, with how often to water, what browns the tips, why spider mites arrive, and how big it really gets.
Yucca
Yucca giganteaYucca care indoors, with the sun and the long watering interval it wants, why the lower leaves brown, and how to cut a tall cane back and root the top.
Fiddle-leaf fig
Ficus lyrataFiddle-leaf fig care that keeps the leaves on, with the light it actually needs, why brown spots appear, and what to do about a bare lower stem.